Merlin Labron-Johnson Confesses his Love for French Cooking, the Challenges of a No-Menu and How to Spot a Michelin Star Inspector

EPISODE SYNOPSISBeautiful Bruton in Somerset is the destination for this week’s The Filling podcast as Anna Barnettjoins chef and restaurateur Merlin Labron-Johnson in his 15 th Century home to chat about hisillustrious career beginning with his training in classical French cuisine, to his successful return toLondon and opening 3 restaurants in 5 years (including a Michelin star), and his eventual move toSomerset where he now runs The Old Pharmacy, a French style épicerie, and Osip, a nose-to-tailrestaurant with no menu: a Michelin starred paean to the local produce.EPISODE NOTES13:00 – 14:30) Here Merlin talks through his chef training abroad in Switzerland, Franceand Belgium confessing his love of and respect for classical French cooking techniques.26:00 – 28:35) Seasonality and provenance are very much at the heart of Merlin’s cookingand underscore the ethos to his restaurants. Here he details how an emotional connection to thefood you’re eating makes it taste better.29:00 – 32:00) Merlin’s school days are recounted here with the chef confessing that hewasn’t particularly well-behaved at school. However, this gave him the opportunity to work in theschool kitchen and from there a love of cooking was born.41:30 – 44:30) Returning from working abroad Merlin had no real plan. So how did taking ajob to pay the bills result in a Michelin star and launching 3 London restaurants in 5 years?51:00 – 55:00) What does a restaurant that offers no menu to its diners look like? HereMerlin explains how dishes evolve through seed planting, cultivation, and harvesting: it’s all in theseasonality.58:50 – 01:02:00) Merlin passionately recounts his ongoing commitment to working forrefugee charities here cooking for over a thousand displaced people in Lesvos and Calais.TOP QUOTES“If I’m a little over-excited it’s because of you and that cookie.” Anna“Cooking, for me, is about respect for tradition with an eye to innovation.” Merlin“As a child I was only interested in getting into trouble and then I found cooking and I becameobsessed with being a chef, but not just any chef: the best chef in the world.” Merlin“Some of the best dairy products, meat and fish I’ve ever had are produced in Somerset.” Merlin“Limitations create the greatest identities.” Merlin“We just say hi, thank you for coming, and this is what we’re going to cook for you.” Merlin“I’m two moths clean of carbs and sugar; and it’s not enjoyable.” AnnaRESOURCESwww.osiprestaurant.comwww.flourishfarmstead.comwww.helprefugees.orgwww.imadssyriankitchen.co.ukwww.caffesicilia.itwww.studionicholson.comwww.thefelixproject.orgABOUT THE GUESTGrowing up in south Devon, Merlin was always surrounded by organic and sustainable farming. Hisparents – a poetry writer and museum curator – always made sure there were good organicvegetables and wholesome food on the table. However, it was a disruptive school-life that foundhim assisting in the school kitchen, rather than attending classes, that really inspired Merlin tobecome a chef. After training extensively in traditional French cooking techniques across Europe,Merlin returned to London where he took the job of head chef at ‘Portland’ restaurant; 9 monthslater he was awarded a Michelin star. Two more restaurants followed, ‘The Conduit’ and ‘Clipstone’,before Merlin decided to start his own ventures in Bruton, Somerset. Now he run the French styleépicerie, ‘The Old Pharmacy’, as well as the Michelin starred ‘Opis’ a no-menu restaurant showcasingthe very best of Somerset produce.Instagram@merlin_johnsonABOUT THE HOSTAnna Barnett displayed an enthusiastic interest